Honda accord no spark

Honda accord no spark DEFAULT

Accord F20b swap no spark?? NEW DISSY COIL ECU CKP

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This is the first time i have had to use a form and couldn't search to find my answer. i have done 3 swaps so far prelude accord civic... but my brother just bought a PRE swaped f20b accord. with a no spark issue.

as far as i can tell Car is a 1997 accord se automatic
has been converted to a 5 speed with f20b
swap is finished but has no spark.
Wiring harness is original accord harness (auto)
has dissy with external coil

I have 2 obd1 chipped ecu's that run my 91 f20b accord just fine and also have 2 obd2 f20b jdm ecu's one auto one not. and OEM accord auto ecu that the car came with.

have tried all of these and still no spark...?
the dissy is new and is the 3rd new one i have tried.
coil is good (put it on my other car)
new CRANK Sensor although i believe it should run without this. i think it is mostly for misfire purposes. but i tried it anyway.
dissy and coil have power.

have a mac scan tool and it shows no RPM when cranking

have spent 2 weeks searching forms and checking wires running from dissy to ecu and have found no problems. can anyone tell me what im missing? or what to check?
Check all the grounds? I know it sounds simple, but sometimes its the simplest things... Also make sure everything is getting power...
i check all grounds that i could see on the ecu pin out. also i didn't know what grounds should be grounded all the time. like i know crank sensor ground should only be grounded when cranking. also what all needs power with KOEO?

this is the diagram that i have been going off of. i think it is obd2a

Pin---Color ---------Desc.
A1----yel------------Injector #4
A2----blu------------Injector #3
A3----red------------Injector #2
A4----brn------------Injector #1
A5----orn/blu-------Secondary O2 heater
A6----blk/wht-------HO2S heater
A7----orn------------EGR Control Solenoid Valve
A8----grn/yel-------VTEC Solenoid Valve
A9----brn/blk-------GND (dig)
A10---blk------------GND (power)
A11---yel/blk-------PGM-FI Power
A12---blk/blu-------Idle Air Control Valve
A15---red/yel-------Evap Purge Control Solenoid Valve
A16---grn/orn-------Fuel Pump Relay
A17---pnk/blu-------A/C Clutch Relay
A22---brn/blk--------GND (dig)
A23---blk------------GND (power)
A24---yel/blk--------PGM-FI Power
A25---wht-----------Intake Control Solenoid Valve
A26---red/blu-------IAB Control Solenoid Valve
A27---grn-----------Radiator Fan Relay
A28---grn/wht------EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve
A29---orn/grn------Evap control canister vent shut valve
C1---lt grn/blk------Ref. Voltage for ATTS or TCM (not used)
C2---blu------------CKP Detect
C3---grn------------TDCP Detect
C4---yel------------CKP Detect
C5---blu/orn-------A/C Switch Signal Input
C6---blu/red-------Starter Switch Input
C8---lt grn ---------K Line (scan tool)
C9-- -
C10---wht/yel------ECM Backup Power
C11-- -
C12---wht----------CKP GND
C13---red----------TDC M Side
C14---blk----------CYP M Side
C15---blu/blk------VTEC Pressure Switch
C16---grn----------P/S Pressure Switch
C17---wht/grn-----ALT Detect signal
C18---blu/wht------VSS Signal
C19 -
C20 - -
C21 - -
C22---brn/yel------IMO Immobilizer Code Signal
C23- -
C24 - -
C25 - -
C26 - -
C27 - -
C28 - -
C29 - -
C30 - -
C31 - -
D1----red/blk----------TPS Detect
D2----red/wht---------ECT Engine Coolant Temp. Detect
D3----red/grn---------MAP Detect
D4----yel/red----------Vcc1 (Power for MAP)
D5----wht/blk----------BKSW Brake Switch Detect
D6----red/blu----------KS (Knock Sensor Detect)
D7----wht--------------HO2S Detect
D8----red/yel----------IAT Intake Air Temp Detect
D9----wht/blk----------EGR Valve Lift Sensor
D10---yel/blu----------Vcc2 (Provides Sensor Voltage)
D11---grn/blk----------SG2 (Sensor Ground)
D12---grn/wht---------SG1 (Sensor Ground)
D13- -
D14---wht/red---------SHO2S (Secondary O2 Sensor Detect)
D15---wht/blu---------PTANK (Detects fuel tank pressure signal)
D16---grn/red---------EL (Detects ELD Signal)
also are the wires on that diagram that say blk---------GND (power) are they supposed to have 12v with key on?
Just checked again and i have good grounds at A9 and A22.

also i have NO POWER at A11 with Key on engine off.

am i supposed to?
The grounds you need to check are on the thermostat housing and the main ground(transmission to frame).

Shouldn't have power to ECU until engine is on anyways. When you say new distributor is it just the cap or the whole unit?
whole dissy. I replaced dissy with a good one i had in spare parts. I also tried converting this to internal coil like i did my 91 f20b accord .didn't help so i bought a remand. and it didn't work. warranted it out once. still no luck. So I ended up buying a brand new dissy. still no spark.

main battery ground on trans is good. engine has good ground. but i do not see the typical thermostat housing ground on this accord. only have a ground on the intake manifold that comes out of the harness. its on the drivers side. right under IAT sensor i think...

also have a 4 pin plug coming out of fire wall harness from ecu (right by fuse box where ECU harness PLUGS into engine harness) that has 3 brown wires and 1 black. it is not plugged into anything and have striped the engine harness down and cant seem to find where it would go. i though maybe it was just old grounds form the automatic trans?? dunno?

like i said car used to be an auto and still has auto harness as far as i know. has 3 or 4 plugs not used that went to the old trans. not sure if it makes a difference. but still have crank no start. with no spark.
Check to see if accords have a main relay... Im not sure if they do, but it sounds like either that can be an issue, also check to see if your ignition switch is working right.
i have 2 chipped obd1 ecus tunning on crome. i have a 1991 accord with f20b and both of the ecus work fine with it. i also have the factory accord se automatic ecu and a obd2 jdm ecu that came with the f20b. its a 5 speed computer.

i have tried all of these and none have worked. but i would like to end up using a obd1 ecu that i can tune. like i said i have 2 good chipped obd 1 ecus that run my 91 cb7 just fine. but no luck on this accord.
also the main relay controls the fuel pump and power to dissy and coil. blk/yellow wires. the fuel pump is working fine and the dissy and coil have power. i can hear it click when i turn the ignition switch on. is there anything else the ignition switch should be doing that i can check? seems to be working correctly.
The grounds you need to check are on the thermostat housing and the main ground(transmission to frame).

Shouldn't have power to ECU until engine is on anyways. When you say new distributor is it just the cap or the whole unit?

any idea on the missing grounds or are the accord just supposed to have the bundle of grounds on the intake only?

do you know what pins on the ecu should have a ground? i could only find 2 that i knew should...?
no i havent. i can check to see if its been done. but why would I need to do that?
i can hear the fuel pump kicking on and have fuel to the rail.

Can you explain?
F22 no spark

Hey im having the same problem. 96 accord with 5 speed swap, obd1 auto witing harness no spark, after reading the forum only thing i can think of is the ground on the thermostat..

Heres why, i had tthe obd2 wiring harness and wheni took it off to put the obd1 auto ecu
There was a ground on the thermostat off the sensor with the green clip next to the themostat. Power wire ran into the harness and the ground went to the housing on the themosat, the auto harness the ground runs with the power into the harness..

Try grouding that ground to the themosta, im goin to try now n see if it fires..:)
Your 97 was the F22 or the F23?

if the F23 you might have to switch pin A15 to 16 b/c that's what I did to get the ECU running (PCB) but you said the Fuel pump is priming so IDK.
Sorry not to get the ECU running, but the Fuel pump to prime
Im Running a
96 accord
obd1 f22b1
obd1 engine harness (automatic) 1 extra plug
obd 2 to obd1 conversion harness
obd1 ecu

The car was running on a 96 engine harness that was wired ghetto to run the obd2 ecu with the obd1 motor.
I swapped everything to obd1 now and the motor cranks, i hear the fuel pump prime, i hear the main relay click but no spark.
Im thinking the distributor went out. either the coil or control module???

Anyone hear anything about the main relay on the accord? is it just fuel relay? or is it like the older models crx da and 88-91 that is notorious for going out that has fuel and spark?

Help Please
im running obd2 auto harness. with harness obd2 to obd1 adaptor to the ecu.

and i would just replace the dissy and coil with known good one. Thats what i did. but still NO SPARK? anyone know anything else i should check?

Troubleshooting a No Spark Problem in Honda Accord

Not every problem with an engine refusing to start is the same. That's why we call figuring out what's wrong with your car "troubleshooting" rather than just "fixing." Before we can fix the no-start problem—in this case in a 1996 Honda Accord EX, which serves as a good example—we have to figure out what's causing the engine to refuse to start.

No Spark

Here is what this owner experienced:

My 1991 Honda Accord EX has 178,000 miles with little or no problem until now. Driving home the other night it just shut off as though I turned the car off. No sputter no nothing. It cranks and cranks but would not and will not start. Had the car towed home and the next day I replaced the fuel pump because I couldn't hear it making that whirling noise, so I thought for sure that was the problem. Well, it wasn't I guess. It still cranks like it wants to start, but will not. I can hear the new fuel pump operating now. Could it be the main relay? Please help.

Since you probably don't have access to a proper fuel pressure meter, you'll have to use your intuition. Most fuel pumps will make a quiet hum to let you know they are working, but a loudly buzzing pump is often an indication that it's on the way out (meaning it's producing far less fuel pressure than you need for the engine to run properly) or it's dead but still receiving electrical current. 

In this case, the owner replaced the fuel pump, but the problem was elsewhere. Don't be discouraged when this happens. Although it costs more money when you have to replace multiple parts in your car to solve a problem, this is the burden of the DIY mechanic. And think of all the money you've saved by working on your own car! 

When the Main Relay Goes Bad

A bad fuel pump causes a sputtering type of stall, not an out-and-out lack of spark. This owner's car just "quit," and one reason for that might be a problem with the main relay—an electronic device that opens and closes the fuel supply to the engine. This happens most often when the car is overheated, and it's something the novice can certainly troubleshoot.  

Other Causes of a no-Spark Engine

There are three primary things that will keep the engine from getting a spark: A bad ignition coil, a bad igniter, and a bad distributor.

To check the ignition coil, measure the resistance between the + terminal (black/yellow wire) and the - terminal (white/blue wire) of the coil. The resistance should be about 0.6 to 0.8 ohms at 70° F. Then check the resistance between the + terminal (black/yellow wire) and the coil wire terminal. It should be about 12,000 to 19,200 ohms at 70° F. It can also be bench tested out of the car.

As for the igniter, if the tachometer is working, then the igniter is okay. Here is the procedure for checking the igniter.

  1. Remove the distributor cap, the rotor, and the leak cover.
  2. Disconnect the black/yellow, white/blue, yellow/green, and blue wires from the igniter unit. 
  3. Turn the ignition switch ON and check for battery voltage between the black/yellow wire and body ground. If there is no battery voltage, check the black/yellow wire between the ignition switch and the igniter unit. If there is battery voltage, proceed to step 4. 
  4. Turn the ignition switch ON and check for battery voltage between the white/blue wire and body ground. If there is no battery voltage, check the ignition coil for proper operation or for an open circuit on the white/blue wire between the ignition coil and the igniter unit. If there is battery voltage, proceed to step 5. 
  5. Check the yellow/green wire between the PGM-FI ECU and the igniter unit. 
  6. Check the blue wire between the tachometer and the igniter unit. 
  7. If all tests are normal, replace the igniter unit.

If the coil and igniter check out as good, then replace the distributor. Check for codes in the power-train control module. That will help pinpoint the problem for you.

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How to troubleshoot no-spark problem in Honda Accord

There are certain prices you must pay if you engage in DIY. However, it would pay off eventually. Click here to see how to troubleshoot no-spark problem in Honda Accord!

The hard start problem differs depending on the model you own. So, before proceeding to fix this problem, we prefer using the word “troubleshooting instead”. This implies finding the root of the problem in your Honda Accord, which will very much help in knowing the best possible solution to the hard start or no-spark problem in Honda Accord.

Below are explanations from Naijauto team!

1. No spark

Sometimes, you would rely on your instinct or intuition due to the unavailability of proper pressure meter. Many at times, a quiet humming sound would be made by most fuel pumps indicating they are in good condition. When you hear a loud sound or pump that is buzzing, it often means it is producing far less pressure required for the engine to run perfectly. This also means that the pump is near its end.

As an owner, you might have replaced the fuel pump only for you to realize that the problem is actually not with the pump but somewhere else. Don’t feel bad about this wrong decision. DIY often takes few cash off your pocket in replacing multiple components in your car while trying to solve a problem. Truth is, you could have saved yourself a lot of repair cost.


It is highly recommended you find the root of the problem rather than wasting money fixing wrong part

2. Bad main relay

A sputtering type of stall is caused by a fuel pump. At this point, you might have been discouraged as an Accord owner and decide to leave the whole problem alone. The main relay might be what you should have looked out for since it is an electronic device that ensures the closing and opening off supply of fuel to the engine.

Overheating can cause this to happen and it is one simple thing that doesn’t require much professionalism in troubleshooting.

3. Other reasons for no-spark problem in Honda Accord

There are 3 basic things that could prevent the engine from getting that spark. These include bad igniter, bad ignition coil and bad distributor.

For ignition coil inspection, take a measurement of the resistance between –terminal, which is white/blue wire and +terminal, which is black/yellow wire of the coil. You should be able to get a resistance of 0.6 to 0.8 ohms at 70-degree Fahrenheit. After which you should take a look at the resistance between the coil wire terminal and the + terminal. You should be able to see something around 12,000 – 19,200 ohms at 70 degree Fahrenheit.

>>> If you can't do it yourself, find a reliable mechanic! List of best auto mechanics in Nigeria & criteria to choose one

How to test for a shorted ignition coil (Honda Distributor)

Check if the tachometer is in good condition for the igniter. If yes, the igniter should be working fine. Take a look at the steps for inspecting the igniter:

Steps to inspect the igniter:

  • Get the leak cover, rotor and distributor cap removed
  • Try and disconnect the yellow/green, blue, white/blue and black/yellow wires from igniter unit.
  • Activate the ignition switch and inspect the voltage of the battery between the body ground and black/yellow wire. In case of absence of battery voltage, inspect the black/yellow wire in between the igniter unit and the ignition switch. When you get a voltage there, move to the next step.
  • Activate the ignition switch and lookout for voltage of the battery between the body ground and white/blue wire. Failure to see any voltage would require you to inspect ignition coil adequate operation or circuit (open) on the white/blue wire at the middle of igniter unit and ignition coil. When you successfully get voltage here, move to next step.
  • Inspect the yellow/green wire that is located between the igniter unit and PGM-FI ECU.
  • Take a look at the blue wire in between the igniter unit and tachometer.
  • You can get replacement for the igniter unit after ascertaining that the tests are normal.

Final take

If you find the igniter and coil in good shape, you might need to get a replacement for the distributor. You can easy find the problem by checking the codes within the control module for powertrain.

>>> Make sure you read this post for Tips on how to maintain used Honda Accord

>>> Once you understand your car operation, you know how important to maintain it regularly. Visitcar maintenance tips and advice on Naijauto for more! Protection Status
Oluwaseun Adeniji

Oluwaseun Adeniji

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Oluwaseun Adeniji is a passionate writer and a poet with special interest in writing about cars. He is a master degree holder in international conflict and management. He enjoys feeding the public with the latest auto gist and well researched car reviews. He is also a strong football lover. So, if Oluwaseun is not writing, expect him to be reading about sports.

99 Honda Civic No Spark Diagnosis with a Test Light
Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros. Com.

Based on both sensors being bad, yes the vehicle will not run. If you scan the computer and find a P1362 and P1367, chances are they are the issue for the no start.

To confirm the sensors are bad, back probe the harness to determine if there is a 5 volt signal. If there is, check the sensors for resistance. It should be between 1850 to 2450 Ohms of resistance. If it does not fall within the manufacturer's specs, replace them. I have actually found them often times to have no continuity.

I hope you find this helpful. Let me know if you have other questions.

Take care,

PS: I attached a picture of sensor location if you need it.
Image (Click to enlarge)




Wednesday, January 20th, 2021 AT 12:59 PM (Merged)


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